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In the second act Camilk wears a robe composed of white faille, a simple, elegant, classic creation, its draperies formed by two white China crepe scarfs. The dress is of Modjeska’s own design. All her other dresses are left to the taste and ingenuity of her dressmaker, who, of course, is an artist in his or her line, and when classic or histo- ric roles are to be performed, her numerous artist friends, the painters and sculptors of In the next act the audience see her in the trial scene, scarcely less magnificently at- tired, in a White satin kirtle of a difl'erent make, and a green corduroy velvet robe and train; a coronet of jewels, a stomacher of satin strapped with gold, and the whole cos- tume, undoubtedly correct and splendid, but too or eons for the audience to attend to muc e se than the splendour of the gentle Queen’s distress. In the next act Catherine wears another ex uisite and well-chosen costume, and 4111' another of gray silk with chinchilla fur trimmings in the death scene. It is a little remarkable that Miss Ward does not begin to touch or move her audiences until she lays off her robes of state, and that, un- til her glories and splendour-s pass away, and she becomes, by an admirable make-up an old woman in the death scene, she elicits no .compassion for her misfortunes. It is as difficult to feel sorry for a woman attired in velvet and ermine, satin, gold and jewels, as it is for one who raves and scolds and frets over her fate. I have seen Miss Ward, as Queen Catharine, die five times, and was moved almost to tears each time. Her gray silk dress has a great deal to do with the pa- thos of the occasion. Whoever is admitted behind the scenes at Booth’s, and sees the exhaustion of the actress at the close of this performance, will be struck with the thought that on some night she will be apt to conclude her labours with a real instead of a. mock death. At the Fifth Avenue Thea! re the admirers of Mme. Modjeska find that the faultless costumes which she wore in “ Camille ” last year have been thrown aside. The Ameri- can public demands new ones. Five times does this matchless artist robe and disrobe at every performance of “ Camille.” Her first dress is of tea rose coloured faille aad Persian brocaded satin and velvet. The dress is in the very latest style of make-up. The diagonal looped side scarfs give a hint of the coming paniers. The open square oorsage, with its high collar slightly rolled in front to show the scarlet lining, is the ad- miration of every society belle, who, as soon as Camille steps on the stage, levels her oFera glass, not to scrutinize the delineation o the character by a genius which compre- hends‘ and faithfully renders this difficult role, but to studyâ€"for imitation, perhapsâ€" the toilette of the artiste. Bat the exhaustion is, in a. great measure, attributable to the frequent changes of her costume. Paris dressmaker, exe’eeds in splendouraall that any ordinary bookish lover of Shake- speare ever conceived, no matter what his or her powers of imagination may be. The kirtle is of white satin, fringed with many rows of gold and silver fringes. The robe opening over it and falling away in an im- mensely long train in the back is of dark ruby~coloured velvet, lined and bordered with crimson, looped with six large jewelled stars. girdled with diamonds and other jewels, the long end forming a. flashing, glit- tering band falling over the kirtle in front. The crown is studded with a wealth of dia- monds and other crown jewels of England. The ears, the neck-and arms sparkling with diamonds; the gold-fringed handkerchief, the pufl'ed and slashed sleeves, the ermine stomacher, and gold and red shoulder cush- ions make up a picture too dazzling for a Qill‘een who already had discovered that her Must the Playwright and Artist Make Way for the Milliner ?â€"A Visit to Four Theatres that Taught a Les- sonâ€"Genevieve Ward, Mme. Mod- jeska and Mrs. Florence, as Their Maids Attire Them. The lavish expenditure, not to say reck- less extravagance, With which plays are put upon the stage nowadays has been severely and justly criticized by the press. But the critic who sits in the auditorium and wit- ness<s the subordination of art to the arti- fices of the dressmaker and the scene-paint- er, can form only a faint idea of the extent and ramifications of the mischief. His view is from a urely aesthetic point. He knows, perhaps, But does not consider it his pro- vinceto trace the effect back to its founda- tion in the ethics of the situation. Neither does the fashion reporter, to whom is sometimes assi ned the almost im- possible task of descri ing the dresses of actresses, consider it her duty to show how utterly impossible it is for women, and for that matter men too, sometimes, to become artists in the true sense of the word, who are tortured with the collection and care of wardrobes such as royalty itself does not in- dulge in at the present day ; and, added to this, the senseless habit of changing the dress for every act of the play. -The high- est art is only attainable to the highzst na- ture. The genius that expends its best forces in designing dresses and studying the effects of costumes must sooner or later suc- cumb to the {utilizing tendencies of such studies. We will cease ere long to have Rachels, Ristoris, Siddonsca, Booths, Macreadys, Talmas, and Salvinis, if we progress in the art of stage dreis’ng and spectacular effects as we have since Mr. Lester VVallack began thirty years ago to inaugurate what was at that time a needed reform in stage sceneries and costumes. influence over thevheart ofr hérrilélr‘id-‘QQS on the wane. How IT STRIKES A WOMAN. 'How can an artist become other than weak in great roles when the dress is more than the man or woman ‘3 And this princi- ple applies to managers as well as artists. A manager should be a man of cultivation and taste. How can he be either when his mental resourCes are taxed to the utmost with the production of plays whose success depends, for the most part, on the skill of the scene painter and the ingenuity of the carpenter? How can he secure the talent demanded by truly intelligent play-goers, when he caters for the sensuous eye, that can be caught by pomp and splendour, ra- ther than to that refined and critical one, which appreciates the correct rendition of n"r’ole by an artist whose soul is unsullied with low ambitions, whose mind will be content with nothing short of perfect con- ception and rendition of a characterâ€"one who studies with conscience? To' exemplify with facts. There are now on the boards of four of our leading theatres four successful paying plays. The principal parts in each are represented by artists whose names are very familiar in the dra- matic profession. At Booth’s, where Gene- vieve Ward and Vandenhofl" are playing Queen Catherine and Wolsey in “ Henry ye Eighth,” whatever may be the merits or de- merits of the artists and their support, both are lost sight of in the splendour of the spec- tacle. I have been there night after night, both before and behind the scenes. It is as a spectacle equal to “ Henry the Fifth,” as represented there four years ago. It takes 227 persons in all to put it on the stage. The amount of money expended for gas, cal- cium lights, and exploding batteries, cos- tumes and scenery, including the panorama of the Thames as the King's galley ascends the river, passing under old London Bridge, and throu h the most magnificent parts of the city 0 that period, and the mechanism that brings the ei ht angels down a beam of light in Queen gatherine’s dream, would startle the ghost of Shakespeare, or those of any old-time lover of his plays. Singular are the improvements made upon the plays of the Bard of Avon. It costs about ten thousand dollars to pro- duce the play as it is done at Booth's, and that does not include Mlss Ward’s dresses. That is a. separate matter. In the first act he wears a dress, which, as designed by the mat Mr. Louis Wingfield and made by a aria dressmaker. exceeds in splendour all (From the N. Y. Sun.) [From the London World-1 I heard the other day of a young lady re- ceiving as a. wedding present the lease of a handsome suite of rooms, together with all the fittings and furniture, in Mr. Hankey’s mansion, Queen Anne’s Gate. An excellent notion, but not altogether new. Mr. Rus- kin once gave a lady a beautifully furnished house, with even Turner’s water colours hanging in the drawing-room ; and the late Lord O’Neill presented his niece with a. house on the banks of the Benn, which was complete even so far as horses in the stable and wine in the cellar, And this is What draws the fullest houses. This is the sort of thing that makes the mo- ney. Do we not need a different kind of progression? Would. we not do better to imitate the crawfish and the lobster for a. while, since we have forgotten our £Es0p with his lesson of tho tortoise and the hare? What would they not give to see the dresses which she exhibited, under protest as earnest as mine was, for my inspection, the morning after I saw her last week in Camille] Her whole stige wardrobe, the classic roles designed by sculptors and paint- ers for the roles of Lesbia. Sperow, and 0190- patra, the exquisite old Venetian toilettes of Juliet, the modern one of Frau-Frau, the me- dieeval dress of Adrienne la Couweur, and the costumes of other roles. The piles of da- Just as I was leavmg Mrs. Florence’s dressing-room, Christine, her maid, showed me the dresses in which she will play the same role next week. A new set of cos- tumes, with stockings, slippers, and every- thing to_match for each costume. -Now, suppose, instead of playing the “Mighty Dollar " night after night, as Mrs. Florence does for six months at a time, and she has been at that for four years, I be- lieve, she had to study and. prepare for a new play every few weeks. How could she do it and accomplish all that dressing too? How can any woman become a. great artist who keeps at all this dressing, and attempts new plays at the same time. She starte-d off on a. run for ither stage. She did not have time to stop a. mamth af- ter her gloves were on and buttonedand her jewels changed. The reader may count it up_ for himself. Paris, come to her aid and design them for her. She places their designs in the hands of her dress-makers, accompanied with ex- plicit directions, and that is the end of the matter to her until she puts them on. SEe looked. at; me with a wan, weary look that went to my very heart, and went on : “Do you know that on matinee daysâ€" twice a week, that isâ€"I dress and undress ten timesâ€"eight times at every performance, once before leaving my hotel, and again af- ter the performance is overâ€"and on the other four days, six times a day. ‘Now count that up and see what it makes.” The simple toilet of blue cashmere and tor- chon lace, in which she appears in the third act of “Comille,” and which is so much ad- mired, she assured me cost her the modest sum of fifteen dollars. The ball dress of the fourth act cost three thousand francs in Pa- ris. It is a. marvel of creamy White satin, lace, brocade, fringes, silver tinsel, and flower garnitures, and however much the ar- tist may forget the dress in the efforts re- quired by the situation in the play at the moment she wears it, I am sure the eyes be- hind the opera glasses see more of the dress than they perceive of Modjeska’s inimitable art. mask and satin and silk, the pilffiugs and ruchings, the cascades of lace and fringe, the the bows and loops of delicately-shaded, and gold and silver brocaded ribbons, the crystal and pearl and gold and silver~beaded guipures, and passementeries, fringes, and embroideriesâ€"it would take six columns in a. newspaper to describe only the half of the wonders and beauties of that lovely, weary- looking, and fascinating woman’s toilettes. She thinks they are very simple. She wears them with exquisite simplicity, with that graceful naivate that makes them seem a part of her. And she says it rests her to change between the acts. But she (lepre- cates the idea of giving an artist’s toilettes prominence, and so does Miss Ward. But all these splendours fade into dim- ness when the costumes of that admirable comedienne, Mrs. W. J. Florence, are seen on the great, ample stage of the Grand Ope- ra House. This immense place of amuse- ment is filled nightly with audiences largely composed of women, who go literally to see, not hear, the play. \Vhat do they care if they are obliged to take a back seat, and cannot hear Billy Florence and his funny wife make their mirth-provoking hits? They can hire an opera-glass in the lobby and look at those famous new toilets which the jolly, extravagant Mrs. Gen. Gilflory has brought back from Paris. When she comes out in her off-hand, rollicking style in the first act in a princesse robe of cream faille with red rose-bud embroideries in chenille, and fly fringes to match, and Tom Thumb tassels of shaded red, every opera glass is raised and every neck is craned forward to get as full a view as possible. They all know that her cream silk stockings are embroidered to match the dress, and that the diamonds that sparkle on the instep of her maroon satin slippers are real. That her gloves bear a gold embroidered monogram, and have twelve buttons. They wonder if the pearls in her blonde hair and around her pretty fat throat are real. I can tell them a. secret. It is saidâ€"I am not sure that it is trueâ€" that they were presented to her by Mr. J. W. Mackey, the great bonanza man. At any rate, he said he was going to give her a set, and no doubt these are the very pearls. Whether this is so or not, I’m sure. of one thing, and that is that when Mrs. Florence changes her dress for each act in the play, as she does, she does the thing thoroughly, I was there in her dressingvroom last night, and saw that she changed her shoes and stockings for every act, and that the stock- ings were all of silk, and all are ually fine and beautifulâ€"all are clocked an of differ- ent colours for each dressâ€"that there is no sham about her laces, her jewellery, her rouge, her make-up, nor her acting. She is true to nature every time in the midst of her art. Her mosaic set is real. So is her dia- mond dog-collar, bracelets, cross, ear-rings, and pins set on spiral wires so as to tremble like dew-drops in the midst of her blonde pnfi's. It’s worth double the money to see the way that clever woman sets off her ex- travagant finery. “Mrs. Florehce,” I asked, “ does it not fatigue you terribly to dress and undress so multinles ‘2" 7 The general effect of the costumes in “The School for Scandal ” at Wallack’s Theatre is good. Excess of iinery is de- manded by this play, and the costumes hav- ing been determined by conventional rules and traditions, there is nothing in particular to describe. They are splendid and correct throughout, and if Mr. Coghlan would only' be satisfied with two coats instead of three, and one pair of hose and breaches instead of two, I am inclined to think he would find more valuable admirers of his drawling style of playing the role. Fashionable men talk that way now, I believe, and they used to dress as Charles Surface is given to the pub- lic by Mr. Charles Coghlan. “ Yes,”â€"-â€"pufiing and. blowingâ€"" but what is one to (-10? It‘s expected, and ycu are obliged _to .keqp up with others.” ‘ I have heard a suggestion made for the benefit of those artists and others who wish their art to be encouraged rather than their costumes. It is to put the toilettes on ex- hibition before the play is performed in some housein a central part of the city, and put a nominal charge for admittance to the same. That, however, might not add to the manager’s profits. . I am sure if Mr. Charles Coghlan played Chane: Smface in a single suit, he would be as admirable as he is in three different costumes. The Union Square is noted for its millin- ery and dress effects. All who witnessed “ The Celebrated Case,” will, I am sure, re- member the splendour of costume in that play, and it is repeated in “ Mother and Son.” The Park, 1:00, is ablaze at the mo- ment with the satin and lace and golden- fringed and ribbon-decked costumes of Mrs. Agnes Booth. A Convenient Wedding Present Seal-skins have at length become the po- pular fur in Paris, and consequently the greater demand for them has greatly in- creased the prices in London. The prices have not advanced here, though they Will probably do so next winter. Untrimmed sacques cost from $50 to $200, but those of fashionable length are never lower than $100. Those sold at $125 are especially commended, but the rices vary according to the quality of the 3 ins and the depth of the garment. A border will add something to the expense. The fashionable borders are brown and silver beaver (which the French call castor), plucked and unplucked otter, wool seal, black marten or Alaska sable, coloured lynx and chinchilla. FUR CLOAKS. The long cloaks of fur are elegant and luxurious wraps for the carriage and for sleighing, but are too heavy for walking. They are made of seal or of otter skins, and come in most graceful shapes that are long enough to envelop the entire person. The Medicis is shaped in the back by seams, and laps over the arms with the effect of a D01- man; this is bordered with silvery beaver. A stately cloak called the Neluska took the medal at the Paris Exposition. It is very long, clinging, and slender, with sides folded over the arms, and the border simulating a pointed cape. The Hortense shape looks like acircular behind, but is shaped down the arm and finished as a square Hungarian sleeve. Other long cloaks are of simple sacque shape, with Wide Oriental sleeves; these are very handsome when bordered with Chinchilla. Still others are in Rus- sian designs, with wide flowing sleeves and smaller close sleeves beneath. The showy silver-lynx, and the lynx ,éleurte with its long silky fleece, are among the choicest trim- mings for these long cloaks. The prices of fur cloaks range from $329 to $600. FUR-LINED CLAOAISS. Fur-lined cloaks are shown in a variety of shapes the season. The best Parisian mo- distes have designed these garments in the long, slender, clinging shapes just described for seal wraps, also in long sacques and as circulars. In selecting such a garment the purchaser should keep in View the probabil- ity that full draperies will be revived, and select an ample garment; for this reason many ladies are buying circulars instead of the newer shapes. Circulars are made with the deep Russian collarâ€".hoods are passageâ€"l and may be either bordered or plain 5 if the sum to be expended is limited, it is better1 to omit the border, and buy the best qual- ity of silk and of fur for the cloak and its lining. Cheap linings of fur rub elf on ’0‘" dress beneath them, and the low-priced silks soon become “ shiny.” Repped silk of heavy quality, Sicilienne, armure, and a new fabric called Messine are all used for the outside of the cloak. Armure is liked be.- l cause its figured surface does not get shiny. . ‘ Satin de Lyon and plain satin are chosen for lthe richest cloaks. A new cloth used by 1 Worth for such cloaks is wool on the wrong side with silk on the surface in reps like Terry velvet. This is trimmed with natural beaver, and has, besides, ornaments of passe,- menterie, draped cords, large showy buttons, and panels of armure. Many dressy cloaks brought from the Exhibition have these or- naments as well as fur trimmingâ€"4. new fa- shion that detracts from the rich simplicity hitherto seen in those that are trimmed with fur alone. A very popular garment of French design is a sacque cloak of medium length, with short side forms somewhat in coat shape; the front laps tn the left side, and the collar is shawl-shaped. This is very handsome when made of black silk lined with squirrel fur and bordered with beaver. It is also made up of black satin. The Mercedes of black satin is a new shape, with three seams down the back and a cape; this is lined with fur and bon- dered with the effective silver-lynx. The Balsamo, of similar style, is trimmed with chinchilla. Among other suggestive names of Exposition cloaks are the Rajah, Afri- caine, Medea, Mandarin, Dimitri and Lal- 1y- The seal-skin sacque remains the favourite iur cloak, notwithstanding the popularity of fur-lined wraps. It is liked not only for its luxurious warmth, but because of its appro- priateness for the greater number of occa- sions, and, furthermore, it harmonizes espe- cially well with the dark rich red shades that prevail this season. The newest seal sacques are from thirty-three to forty inches long, the average length being thirty-seven or thirty-eight inches. They are more closely fitted to the figure than those of last winter, though ample fullness is provided below the waist for the more boufiaiit tour- nures now worn. The shoulder seams are short and high. The front is double-breast- ed, and may fold over straight from the front down, or else be turned back an revere like a gentleman’s coat. The collar is broader than that c last yerr. Coat sleeves without cuffs are preferrei, as culfs are thick and clumsy about the wrists, and, moreover, are suggestive of having been put on, as is sometimes the case, to hide small pieces used for sleeves. Passementerie loops with seal-skin bars fasten the cloak. At the edges of the garment the skin is tu ned up over a cord and faced on the lining ; this gives the edge a heater rolled appearance than it would have if turned up flatly. The quilted lining is of brown satin Grecâ€"a twillcd silk with satin lustre that does not fray, as smoother satin is apt to do, and wears well. VVell-made seal sacqucs have the pile of the fleece turned upward, as the fleece then naturally falls backward and opens slightly, thus showing the depth and thickness of the pile effectively, and giving a darker look; for this leason, when stroking the fur with the hand, the strokes should pass upward, as down strokes make the fur too smooth 1nd glossy. Sacques that have the fewest seams are commended, as the pile is apt to wear off in the seams ; hence funiers shape the back over a. form, and thus avoid all but the necessary seams under the arms. The fur sacque should be as carefully fitted to the wearer as other cloaks are, as so much depends upon its shapely fit, which is easily destroyed by long shoulder seams, or by “bagginess” in the back. The purchaser often selects the skins for her sacques, and in doing this she will soon discover that the beauty of seal-skin con- sists in the density of its fur, and its dark rich colour. For fineness of fleece and depth of colour the Shetland seal-skins are chosen ; but these are very scarce and very high, as no Shetland seals have been taken for several winters. The strong Alaska skins, with thick warm pelt, are preferred for garments that are to be subjected to hard service, as they are mrre durable. Trimmed sacquesâ€"that is, with a. border of another kind of furâ€"and plain untrimmed saeques are both fashionable. It is best, however, when purchasing a new sacque, to get the plain, nntrimmed garment of seal long enough without a border, so that a border can be added at a future siason if the fashion requires still greater length. A bor- der eight inches wide is as broad as can be used with good efi'ect on a seal sacque. The short sacques only thirty inches deep for- merly worn can be made the fashionable length by adding a border seven or eight inches broad. Ladies who have their old sacques renovated are advised not to have them fitted too closely alound the hips, as they may soon be too small for bouffant dra- pery. They will also notice that furriers have succeeded in giving seal-skins a darker colour than was thought possible a few years since. It is not possible, however, to give this new dark shade to old sacques by redyeing them, as the pelt of fur seal is weakened by the first dye, and is not strong enough to endure a second one. All that the furrier can do is to dress the fur anew, making the fleece smooth and even, and to repair the worn places ; a border, with new collar and cuffs, can then be added. After seal-skin has been exposed to rain or snow it should not be left damp, but should imme- diately be well shaken, and spread out to dry in a room where there is no artificial heat ; if brought into contact with the heat of a fire while wet, the fleece will be matted together and defaced. NEW YORK FASHIONS. SEAL-SKIN SACQUES. rices. The exquisite sjlvefifok band; cost 6. The gray .fo‘x ishcheaPer, ‘and may he p $ A novel trimming called Toulitza is black cony skin dusted on the points with sil- very white paint. The effect is very good, and French modistes use it for trimming very elegant silk cloaks. It costs from $1 to $1 a yard. The new Marguerite trimming is c'lipped cony, with white hair inserted in clusters that look like anew-flakes. There are also many faney mixtures of feather and fur, such as edges of chinchilla with a. stripe between of gray ostrich feathers or of the blue-green parts of peacocks’ feathers. Un- ~~=ll «1 3i“- ry thrr nnvl considered still uAUl‘o erode, ; mus costs $5. The lynx furs in gray, black, and blameâ€"which has blue shadesâ€"are very fashionable long fleeces for trimming. The light long gray lynx is $8 a yard. Black lynx is coloured, and has a silken gloss ; in fourdnch borders it costs trom $3 to $5. The silver blue or bleute lynx is very dressy. The Qtter furs, both plucked and unplucked, make dark ricl‘} borders, especially for line wraps. The chin- chilla borders are as fashionable as the sets just described, and are very expensive, though they vary, according to their quality and depth, from $2 to $18a yard. The va- rious fox furs also sliow great range in éoloured to match suits. It makes an eicel- lent show for the expense, which is from $1 to 354. Black fox is a soft, silky, elegant fur, costing from $6 upward. Fui‘ wide hot.- dew:l the black genct is commended, at $3 a yar . The taste for fur trimmings has greatly in- creased, and in order t) match the various colours and cloths of cloaks and of costumes nearly all the furs in use are made into bor- ders for trimming. A single wide border is thought more effective than two or three narrower bands of fur. The low-priced fur trimmings begin with the soft and pretty cony-skins, either brown or gray, at 15 to 25 centsa yard. The ’coou trimmings, at 75 cents up to $4, are really very dressy, and the nicer ualities are used for fur lined. circulars and loth suitsrthe fleece is“ so long that pelt an inch wide gives a border of three inches. The familiar black marten borders are very effective, anl cost $1 a yard and upward. One of the most fa- shionable furs for borders is the black and brown beaver, or caster, as the Parisian fa- shion writers call it. It comes in bands four or five inches wide, with all the long hairs plucked out of it, and a velvet-like surface, or else unplucked, with the stiff hairs left in; in either case this handsome dark bor- der is fit to trim the richest fabrics, aid costs $3 a yard, Silver points or single white hairs are sewed in, and it is then m" «1 '4‘“- 1'_‘.' thrr and considered still uAUl‘o “root, ; “men's-ts $5. The lynx _furs Chinchilla remains the fashionable choice for showy, dressy sets, especially with young ladies. The soft light gray shaded fleece is very beautiful, and at the same time warm and durable. rI‘he Arica is the best, and differs greatly in its clear gray shades from the Bolivia, which has broWner tints, An echarpe of chinchilla costs from $25 to $50, but the boas begin as low as low as $11, A Bolivia 'chinchilla muff costs only $5, and looks very pretty, provided it is not worn with Arica chinchilla. To wear with velvet costumes, the choice lies between chinchilla and the silver-fox set ; the soft long fleece of the latter is tipped on the ends with sil- very white that gives a beautiful Lfi'ect; a mull" costs from $35 to $75, and a boa. is about the same expense. The fisher-tail sets look like dark sable, and are thought by many to be the richest of all' furs ; they are, however, much less expensive than sable, as the sets cost from $75 to $155. Mufl‘s made from the be ly of the fisher in- stead of the tail are still lower priced, cost- ing $12 and upward, ' Squirrel fur is the popular lining; that known as squirrel lock is most used and is partly gray and partly white. Plain gray linings of squirrel fur are liked by elderly ladies. Linings of the whole squirrel are most commended by furriers. As all these linings are easily imitated in cat‘skins, they should be purchased with great caution. Sicilienne circulars with squirrel-lock lining can be bought as low as $50, but the fur will be so light as to have little warmth. A better purchase is a silk outside lined with heavier skins of the entire squirrel at $65 to $75. For $100 are beautiful armnre cir- culars well lined. Ermine linings have a regal look, and may be had in a handsome circular for $125. Chinchilla linings are light and luxuriously warm, but, like those of sable, are very expensive. Anovelty called the Vienna. is an ecru-tinted fur lin- ing as soft as chinchilla. The handsomest trimming at small expense is a border and deep Russian collar of black marten. Chin- chilla and silver-lynx borders are very dressy and also expensive, often making the circu- lar cost $300. The echarpe or scarf of fur is a novelty to be worn around the neck instead of a hoe. It is a broad collar with long, narrow, straight ends, shaped like the victorines for- merly worm, but is sometimes lapped at the throat like ufichu. This is very dressy in the long-fleece furs, such as blue or silver lynx, silver beaver, chinchilla, ’cnon, and the glossy black monkey skins. A hand- some scarf of lynx With ainuff to match costs $40 or $50. Another comfortable nov lty is the fur pelerineâ€"a pointed collar or cape that covers the neck and shoulders. This is very handsome of chinchilla, or bea- ver, or else ’0 )on skins. A chinchilla. pelcr- iiie costs from $30 to $50. A scarf of the long hair of the black monkey is considered very stylish, and mate about $20; a. muff to match is $10 to $16. Another caprice is to make sets of the spotted brown leopard and the mottled tiger Sklle. There is also an effort to revive the fitch and stone~marten sets that were once so popular. The popular set of fur remains the long boa. and muff of medium size. Furs with long fleece are made up in round boas, but the shorter fleeces, such as seal-skin, are flat. The plainest mufi's are most stylish ; tassels and bows at the end are passes. The set selected by ladies who have no fur cloaks or fur trimmings that must be matched is of seal, black marten, or ’cwn skins; if expense need not be considered, the more dressy furs are chosen, such as sable, chinchilla, silver fox, or fisher-tail. Alaska seal mufl's cost from $5 upward, while the finer Shetlands are $10 to $30; boas cost about the same price. A good set can be bought for $10. Otter sets resemble seal-skin, but are more reddish-brown, and are a. trifle heavier ; this is an excellent fur for sets, but is considered rather heavy for sacques ; otler muffs cost from $10 upward, and boas are the same expense. Mink sets are still in favour with people who do not care for novelties ; no other fur has ever taken the place of mink for serviceable wear, the prices are Itiuch lower than formerly. Long round boas of black marten or Alaska sable are considered the most dressy pieces of low-prised furs; when thoroughly de- odorized they are very pleasant to wear, as the fleece is of natural colour, and there is no dye to rub off and soil the collar, as is so often the case with low-priced furs that have been coloured ; the mufl's cost from $5 upward, and the boas are as low as $8. At the same expense are the dressy sets of co- loured lynxâ€"a soft silky fleece that is now very stylish. ’Coon sets, also, of the same price, are very much liked by young ladies ; the long fleece is in its natural brown shades, with white tips like the silvery points of much finer fur. The rich dark Russian sable sets are al- ways valuable, and always in fashion, no matter what novelties are offered. The boas are round and long, with two tails fin- ishing each end. Handsome dark sable muffs are $400, but there are light shades of sable made up in muffs for $35. Since the fashion favours all furs with white tips or silvery points, sables of this kind have been used, though formerly they were rcjected. Mufi's of this silver-tipped sable are lined with white silk, and made very dressy ; they cost $85. 015 the Hudson Bay sable the boas with a dark stripe down the middle are handsomest, and cm scarcely be distin- guished from the medium qualities of Rus- sian sable. THE ECHARPE, PELERINE, ETC‘ SABLE, CHIN CHILLA, ETC. FUR TRIMMINGS‘ SETS 0F FUR. Awarded to my Machine Oil M} the Provincial Exhibi- tilzl} held at Tyrsuto ilxsfiubflyhex. 187,8; the} host-rééfiro: c616 {v}: , users uévef 7 heat it by the fire, and the prices are low. rels be‘ur myfiorigfiga] txadp inarlg. N Works 01; Donoliivcr and Front Street. Office, 14 Church street, Toronto. GEO. B. STOCK. MAGHIN E OILS ! F. E. DIXON & 00., LEATHER BELTING, 82 Ki-ng' St. West. Torontoa Nl‘ARIO V11} l‘EIUNARY UULLEGE, m connec- tion with Agricultural and Arts Assucimiion, Tempennce $6.. Toronto. Sessi'm 1878-9â€"01asses bezin Oct vber 30b 1. Junior students admittei until J y. Apply to the Princxpal. Prof. Smith, V.S. A ‘63 3531-] Eur Ruthie} 'P-rilit-il'xz'svtafilfisjumgg 1h" Adjustable Stencil Letters. Catalogue free on up 1i- g‘atmn: STEVENSON 8:00., 82 King street West, Tordnto‘ l)"- ofie’tfiatvbgres allcéegéililfv f-n maid ;Hi;iél;éafla, and amongsL boulders Size 6 in. to 36 in. Horse or manpower. Tools and rights for sale. HOLT & 00., on unnfixu “y”; m , A Farm lots in Dysart and other townships. Town lotsin Haliburton, to which village the Vic loria Railway will, it is expected, be open for traffic on or before 15!. October next. Apply to C. J. BLOMB‘IELD. Manager Canadian Land and Emigration 00., Frontâ€"street East. Toronto $3,999, TELEGRAPH Institute, 32 Km; Sb. E:L~t, 10' Ladies and Gentlemen L0 Lea-1'21 l'elo;mp'ly, and qu« lify for offices opuniugin the Domiu‘ou. Address M ANAGER., Box 955, i'oronto. Gold Medal In Family fonts, in severaldificr uL shyics‘ Best. In ducements. Gamlogue free. Address A large assortment. TORONTO WIRE WORK‘S 116 Kingfireet West, Toronto. W. H. RICE. business purposes, etc. St‘clic‘l’dolfihfiméion and-Ili- Adjustible'stencil, Steel Stung} :ylsQ Auger will bare out an kinds of soil better and faster, and give better satisfactiun than any other. Do nnt be de- - ‘ 'ed. Manufactory, 68 Mary 812., ilton, Ont. The well-known “ Alaska ” Fur House, No. 81 Yonge St, Toronto, has been opened within the last low days by Messrs. Anhalt & 00., who are now sellmg off the immense stock of fursâ€"amounting to about $45,000 worthâ€"by public auction every day. This affords an opportunity for securing good furs at a bargain which seldom occurs, and should be immediately seized by those in want of these goods. Merchants and storekeepers will find it makes a great difierenee in the sale of their goods to have them properly dressed. Goods a little shabby by be» ing in the store can be dressed equal to new and bring a. better price, We pay all express charges (one way) on goods sent us. Heads of families will find that by sending their washng to Toronto they can get them done better and cheaper than at home. We re- turn goods same week as we get them. Address for particulars, G. P. Sharpe, Toronto Steam Laundry, Toronto. PICTURE M0 LDINGS, FMmeS,M1rTUI‘S, etc.. Wholesale and' etail. Low Prices. H. J. MATTHEWS 8: BRO., 93 Yonge svrcet,'Torontn. Hudsonm. Y‘ plucked beaver band; have the golden eyes of peacocks’ feathers arranged down the mid- dle. Cocks’ plumes are {ordered with black fur bands. There is no person living but what suffers more or less with Lung Disease, Coughs, Colds or Consumption, yet some would die rather than pay 75 cents for a l ottle of me- dicine that would cure them. Dr. A. Rose- liee’s German Syrup has lately been intro- duced in this country from Germany, and its wondrous cures astonish every one that try it. If you doubt what we say in print, out this out and take it to your Druggist, and get a sample bottle for 10 cents and try it, or a regular size for 75 cents. The Toronto Steam Laundry, Toronto, is now pre- pared to execute all country orders for laundry work on the shortest nocice. Goods can be sent from this city any time up to Wednesday, and have them reâ€" turned the same week. One of the most signal triumphs achieved by any exhibitor at the recent Provincial Fair was won by the Oshawa Cabinet Com- pany. This Company obtained the First Prize on their Bedroom furniture, and car- ried away prizes also in Centre tables, Parlor Suites and Cabinets, thus establishing their claim to the very highest position among the furniture manufacturers of the Province. The whole of their immense stock in the warerooms, No. 97 Yonge St., is marked to sell at very luw prices. 25 Flbiflfil rose-tifi’tcd cxrfls, with name, 103E Agents! complete outfit; 10013 C. VANN & 00., North Chatham, N. Y. (WT Cut this Outâ€"It May Save Your Life. THE ladies unanimously vote Cooper's Shirts the best made. The buttons remain, button-holes perfect. Altering unnecessary. Order them at once at 109 Yonge St. , To- ronto. AN Arabian, having brought blushes to a. maiden’s check, said to her :â€"“My looks have painted roses in your cheeks, why for- bid me to gather them ‘2 The law permits him who sows to reap the harvest.” If pale ghostly-looking people wish to have rosy cheeks, they should use Victoria Hypophos- phites, the great remedy for consumption and general uebility. For szle by all deal- ers. ‘ EXPERIENGED Canadian Journalist. will 1111 demo Ike to furnish weekW letter to muutry papers. Address B. S. IL, Box 687. Toronto. Made ')y Agents scllivq on Rubbe" Printing Stamp fur Banking and Genera 357’ Homes in West Virginia cheap. Ad- ventisement in another column. MESSRS. MILBURN, BENTLEY 8; PEARSON : Gentlemenâ€"About the first of November I contracted a very heavy cold, which settled on my lungs, and through it I was so hoarse for about two months that I could hardly speak. I used a. number of different dollar bottles without any good effect. Ore day reading your almanac, I noticed that Hag- yard’s Pectoral Balsam was recommended. I resolved to try it, and altel usi lg three 25 cent bottles was entirely well. Yours lruly, CHAS. Coans, RM. USEFUL KNOWLEDGEâ€"A hurricane travels eighty' miles an hour; storms move thirty- six; slow rivers flow four; sailing vessels make ten ; steamboats run eighteen ; a horse trots seven ; a man walks three~it he is not a victim to rheumatism, orick in the back, and other spinal difficulties. To effect a cure. for these, use Hagyard’s Yellow Oil, the best remedy in the manket. Price 250. per bottle. Milburn, Bentley & Pearson, Proprietors. on hold at, Toronto in Se member, 1878. My Extra. XXgnd _ X Oils will mu (rec in LADI ES’ DfNEEN, ALIBU RTON COUNTY. GAEfiISâ€"QE‘EAJ'. m Dyes mints FOUR First Prizes and the Per evenin g easily earned. Send 10 cents for a valuable package to commence Work on. ‘ FAY g; (10,. Richter l. Vt. Fancy Cards, with name,‘10c..}flain or gold. Agents" outfit, 10c. 150 styles. Hull 8; 00., ... \Y v Changeable-Rfibb'er Type Send for Price Lists and Damm. In West Virginia J. H. BRISTOR, 81 COLBORNE ST., Near St. Lawrence Market, Toronto. TROWBRIDGE, March 2nd, 1878. FCEWER STANDS Beauty and Economy. MANUFACTURERS 0F QN‘I‘A IO BAKING POW- DER, est in the market. Take no other. Sum: FDR CIRCULAR To Business items. MARTIN’S BURG, the P112qu WE'LL, .AUQER,'1}19 or} A YEKR MADE WITTi C, G, STEWART .Y 00‘, 7 ’ Toronto, Ont. comér King: & Yovge Sta, Turoutu Furs. W. VA.. U.S.A. r SLmnl» i :omml ATSON & HAGGARTâ€"BAKRISTERS, A1"! 0 J.â€" neys, Solicitors in Chancery, &c., oflice 30 Adelaide Street. East, Toronto Ont. aimed, identical with the far-fa.de Thoricy food of Great, Britain. Ir consists of seeds, roots, barks, and herbs, Improves 1; me, flesh and s.»irib in the‘ horse, famous “We, sheep and jwigs rapidly, and greatly in- creases prod-dogs of the dairy, Oniy $10 per 100 lpe. Circulars s'ent free. Manufacfiured 48 John St. south, Hamiltqn, U_nt ' The durability of Electra-Plated Ware depends n‘aiuly upon the amount of silver with which it is m-a‘e-l. Th: coating of silver on Fine Quadruple Plaiel Ware is {our times heavier than is com- monly usedin the manufacture of standard plate, aml renders It infizituly superior for actual wear, n‘t mugh in appearanc} and finish the difference m-Ly be so slig‘is as to Le almost imperceptible ex- <egt to experts. As a consequence, no depart- ment of trade offers more inducements, or is more taken advimtuge of h) dishonest dealers, who pre- fer large present gains to future and permanent trade. It has become almost an axiom in the ' Electro-plate trade that “ The, only guarantee for a t H, good and sufifcientplate is the. integrity of the manu- facturer.” A manufacturer‘s trade mark is his hand to the Vm 101' and Consumer that the goods thus stamped are honest and reliable, and no one who has made any reputation ever risks it by allowing his impress to be put upon articles of ltlfel‘lOl‘ quality. Amongst first- class manufacturers, go ids that me slightly dunwged, or which do not fully come up to the necessarv standard of excellence, are finished up a; hi ghlv as possible, and branded with the 11min: of some fictitious C )mpany or Mmmflwturer. 'l‘hcse Gulls, although almost worthless for weer,‘ are often pslmel offiupon th’a Heller for reliable goods, and the result is that the Omsumer is in L‘le to piy a lirst~class price in): an article that canihot possibly give satisfaction. It will thus be seen that the on'y safegu ml that either the Dealer or Consumer cam have is to refuse to buy any goods which do not bear the trade mark of some well-known and reliable manufacturer. By adhming to this rule they will save money. and city in the Dominion. ENGINES AND BOILERS. \Ve sell to the Trade only, and Dealers purchasing from us can always rely upon get- ting tull value for their money. We hold the largest assortment of Plated Ware in Cana- da, and are prep xred to fill orders either from stock or fro n the factory ; in either case satisfaction is gdaranteed. our new illustratql catalogue is now ready, and will be sent free to any Dealer in Plated Ware sending us'his address. 4 > ‘ ‘ ’ ' " " liming the time we have been in business, w; have rigidly adhered to the prin- ciple of selling only first-class goods of well'knowu m mufacturers. and these at close prices. For these reasons, in spite of the hard times anl tremendous competition, we have steadily worked our wwy t0 the front, until our House is now acknowledged to be the LEADING HOUSE in the Dominion of Camda for all descriptions of Electro'plated Flat and Hollow Ware. ’ Manufacturer’s Agents, Thorley’s Improved Horse and ‘ ' cattle FOOd. ‘ County and Township Councils will find‘lt, to their advaulage to renew Wooden Blil permanent IRON STRUCTURES. Plans and Estimates furni 12d (injwplicmion tor v. _--.â€".-..A Purchasers can have the fullest confidence in b1dding,'as the sorting is de- cidedly liberal, and must ensure even greater satisfaction to buyers than did our sale of last year. This is undoubtedly the largest collection in the Country, and presumably the only sale of the Season. TERMS 01-" SALE :â€"All purchases under $100, one month’s credit; $100 to $200, two months’ credit; $200 to $300, three months’ credit; and all sums over $300, four months’ cred1t. Catalogues of the Robes _Will be prepared by the 14th and ready for clietriE bution, an goods W111 be on new the day previous to the sale. We are confident in saying this is the finest collection of BUFFALO ROBES ever ofl’ered the Merchants of the Dommion, being of a very superior quality, dark, well furred, and unusually free from cuts, The Robes are now being carefully assorted and graded, and will be put up in lots of 12, each lot being numbered. The Robes are all new, and consist of all grades. from Calf and Summer Robes to full-furred first-class dark whole skms. Galbraith, Christie, & Co. SGUTT, SUTHERLAND, 00., AUCLiQneeI’S, 895 Extra Fine Lined and Trimmed. Tuesday, the 19th inst, Galbraith, Christie, 86 Co. ‘ ANNUAL . AUCTION TRADE SALE 4GENZ‘ WANTED in every village, town, IRON THE HAMILTON Bglgphgpgfln mm; GOMPANY, From 1 to 13 Horse Puwer, for Far- mers, Dairymcn, BuLter and Cheese Factories Printers and all parties using hand 0? 110150 1)_0wc.. Best anl ulnapcst‘ in the nmrket. Semi for circular and price list: John Dot/y, Warerooms, 89 Front, St. West, ZIMMERMAN, MONAUGHT &. 00-, 4,545. Esplanade Stceut TORONTO. HIGHWAY AT ELEVEN A.M. SALE INCL.UI)IIVG TORONTO. A. JAMEso'N',’ MAiiéééf,“"Hamnton, Ont. BUILDERS 01? and Ear Disc-Lies, Trinity Medical School. Eye and Ear Surgcan to the Andrew Meme:P Eye and Earmfinnary (Gum-ml Hospital.) Treats Eye. Ear, and Thruat Diicusos m; 146 BAY SIX. TORONTO. Ontario rhobog raphic Stock House, CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEARS’ CARDS, SCRIP. TURE TEXTS, SUNDAY SCHOOL RE- \VARDS, CllROMOS, FRAMES, r ‘ AND MOULDINGS. Eye, Ear and Throat Diseases. JERSEY BUTTER POWDER ' Priué 25 centis per paukeL; For sale by 'D'ruggistla Grocers, and Storekecpcrs. . I D Ofa rich gal e x coiour, produced at all seasons of 125.0 year by using the ‘ Full Limes. Choice Selections. LYON 8:. ALEXANDER. R. A. ALT, L ECT URER ON EYE Special Notice. FIRM, SWEET BUTTER BRIDGES ! 123 Bay St., Toronto. HUGH MILLER A 00., Toroyto 56 Yonge St., Toronto B‘Iidges with Substantial and