The following text may have been generated by Optical Character Recognition, with varying degrees of accuracy. Reader beware!

Changes in the fashion of dress are due to many causesâ€"civilization, clim- ate, religious and political reasons, convenience and the love of variety. The initial‘changes come, or grow, from the advance of civilization, when communication between various coun- tries becomes more frequent, and 1a- ter in those countries when the art of war has yielded to the arts of peace; also, when friendly explorers come to unknown lands, as when thePhoeni- clans first landed on British shores, and showed to the wondering eyes of the wood>painted or skin-clad Briton their woven clothes, dyed with Tyrian purple; or, later. when the Romans came and imposed their higher civilizâ€" ation along with their conquests. One sure sign of further civilization is when women are more gorgeously attired than men, or equally attired. The sav- age done his war-paint, his necklace of skulls, shell ornaments. or feather, cloak, but his wife, who is only his‘ domestic grudge, or beast of burden, has no such pleasures of vanity in her hard life; the female savage is the inferiorIin looks and strength; in common with other animals and birds of her sex, and would not dream of vyâ€" ing with (the male! Personal, egostical vanity would be a step upward and on- ward 'for the poor squaw or bushwo- man which might be the spur‘ on to better things, as much as on the oth- er hand 'it is a drag down for her civilized'sisterI who knows that there are so many things in heaven and earth to dream of, among which her own skin-deep beauty and its cover- ings find a very small place. {Painters have had an enormous in-‘ fluenoa on dress. Early in this cen- tury, tha simplicity in dress which had then come in was very much‘ due to Romney’s charming figures in white gowna and straw hats, It was 3. ye- action from the stiff hoops and huge monstrosities in the way of headgear which inl Paris seemed to have reached their zenith juat before the Revolu- nun..va pl, _. _ as he :was an ardent republican, many adopted his costumes either to hide or to proclaim their real opinions. Holâ€" bein is our earliest authority for the real every-day aspect of English so- ciety; he could paint middle-aged and elderly women in attire suitable to their age, and yet eminently pictur- esque, 'and in that way threw the weight of his influence on the side of modest dress for girls and young wo- men also, it being a. peculiar trait in the world of fashion that if a style is becoming to any one age, old and young alike adopt it; probably when it is a mode becoming to the old, the younger feel assured that it becom- ing to their seniors it must necessarily be ten times more so to themselves, which it generally is; likewise the elders, 5861118“ 9. style very charming to J_,AL!.‘_. :5. Ln kn tibn, when wemen appeared with a whole flower and kitchen garden on their heads, and. one lady even bore a representation of.a fleet of ships in full sail. Then simplicity came in, with costumes of 019351ch type, a re- vival of Greek and Roman draperies, induced by, the paintings of David ; and , 14.2,... n...“â€" Cluck: uvvnu .â€" ..._,‘- .Vv, , v the yt’mng, Bope by adopting it to be rejuvenated in others’ eyes as well as in their own. ,,A3_LL Lu LALVAL vvv u. Fiction sometimes carries weight, and introduces a new fashion which may become. more or less permanent, as for instance, black evening dress for gentlemen, which in Bulwer Lytton’s life is claimed by his son to be due to the novel " Pelham," wherein Lady Frances Pelham writes to the hero, “ Apropos of the complexion, I did not like that blue coat you wore when I last saw you. You look besfl in black, which is a great compliment, for peo- ple must be very distinguished in ap- arance to do so." “Till then, re~ marks the biographer, “ the coats worn for evening dress were of different colâ€" ors, brown, green, or blue, according to the fancy of the wearers, and Lord Orford tells me that the adoption of the now invariable black dates from the publication, of 'Pelham,’ ’ All the contemporaries of Pelham would ap- pear to have been simultaneously posâ€" sessed with the idea that they were entitled to take to themselves the great compliment paid by Lady Frances to her son] . LE_A_ Some authors insist strongly on white muslin as the dress for girls: Ethel Newcome’s " tall slender figure is concealed in a simple white muslin robe confined at her slim waist by an azure ribbon." ‘White muslin is the subject of an amusing conversation be- tween Henry Tilney and Catherine Morland; and Yanother hero of Jane Austen’s also airs his ideas on white dressesâ€"Edmund, in " Mansfield Park,’ who, when Fanny consults him as to whether her bridesmaid‘s gown is too smart for a certain occasion, lays down the lavm'flflat in white a. woman can av; uvu - Some books introduce new tashions, others recall old ones, as for instance "Cranford,” which has many refer- ences to turbans, patterns, etc., which Mrs. Gaskell remarks war? probably “A”. V....,___ , worn in the little town of Cranford long after they had disappeared else- where; but then "the dress of the Cranford ladies is very independent of fashion, as they observe, ‘What does it. signify how We dress here at Cran- ford, where everybody knows us '1' and if they go from home their reason is equally cogent: 'Wha_t does it signiâ€" fy how we dress here, where nobody knows us 'P ' never be overdressed. Mrs. Reeves in "Comin' thro' the Rye," makes Paul Vasher ask the heroine to wear white; he has. “ the man’s fixed belief in the perfectibility of that colorless color; black or white, or black and whiteâ€" every man believes a woman to be wellâ€"dressed whhen she is arrayed from top to toe in either or both.” This is a decidedly true remark, and can be verified by1.any one' who notes the conâ€" versation when a late ball is under dis- cussion, when if any pretty woman has attired herself in a smart and wellâ€" made black satin, ten to one if it is not the dress picked 0th and praised up by the men. When, however, ob- serving that {men admire black, of course we do not mean a. dowdy black, done up, and wor‘n for economy’s sake â€"the wedding gown, perehance, ,of years back! Farthingales, hoops ‘ and crinolines have all; had their dayâ€"rather, indeed, their repeated daysâ€"in turn with straight closely hanging skirts. We may believe now that they all are things of the past. The farthingale or vertugale, i.e., meaning vertical bands, was worn first by French and Spanish ladies ; in' England it reached enormous dimensions in Elizabeth’s time. The‘ crinoline was a faint imitation of it.‘ and was in and out of fashion alternate- ly, but! had a long reign when‘ the Em- press Eugenie revived it in 1855; a few years since an attempt to again'bring it into fashion utterly failed, mostly because women each year are now adopting clothing suitable to their ocâ€" cu’pation. There is an amusing pas- sage in Prof. Owen’s ’life, when in No- vember, 1859, he goes to a great civic .dinner: " Next me was a young bride with widely developed skirt. Her husâ€" band andr I had to lift her, first upon the table, then to dold her nether half tig’h‘tly up, and glide her in like a the ‘form ’ which was fixed olose‘to mummy! Seem operation needed with everybody, and ib. to get them out." Probably now ‘wo‘men dress in a garb congruous to their more active pursuits and methods of getting about, the crin- oline will remain at a discount, unâ€" less itl should come in for evening wear, ‘as its one virtu‘e is that it can show 1111) a handsome design on a brocade, For cycling, golf or stepping up to the top of an omnibus, it would decidedly . be‘ best to be conspiculous by absence. Religious protests have often shown their outward and visible signs in the matter ofl dress. Monks and nuns have donned a habit as a protest against worldly apparel, as a sign of fellowship with each other, and for the sake of economy of time, thought and money, as do our sisterhoods of the present day. In cases when conventual houses become lax, as at Port Royal before Angelique Arnauld’s time, the lady abbesses and their nuns exchanged their coarse’ serge for softer materials, and even silk, and later for an alto- geth’er worldly garb, Quakers, in the same way, breaking through their first strictness, were their garbs and drabs in‘ more delicate sh‘ades and finer ma- terials. In other ways also has dress been influenced by religion. Silk had been made in England in the time of Henry VI., but the first great impulse to its manufacture here was due to the immigration of Flemish weavers in 1585, who fled from the Low Coun- tries, which were being harried and devastated by the Spanish persecutions. Just a hundred years later a second impetus was given by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes, when a large body of French artisans scattered themselves to Germany, Switzerland and England; those who sought Bri- tish protection settling themselves in Spitalfields. Early in the reign ‘01 George I. there wecre riots of the wool and silk weavers, who protested: against the fashion then coming in of women, both in the upper and lower classes, wearing Indian chintzes, and Dutch printed calicos. The many attacks in the streets on women so attired led ultimately to leg- islation, and calico gowns were forbid- den to, be worn. So all the dainty cot- ton dresses were pulled to pieces and turned into quilts and futniture covers. Then a fashion came in of embroider- ing fine 1holland elaborately, the linen, which was. made in England, being sent as was that from other countries, to be bleached on ’the famous bleaching grounds of Haarlem, and then return- ed as iholland. A lady in the reign” of George I. speaks of a wonder in em- broidered gowns, and though the one she describes is of white satin, no doubt the holland dress would not be far behind in elaboration. She was at the Princess Royal’s wedding. and af- terward wrote: “The Duchess of Queensbury's clothes pleased me best; they were white satin embroidered, the bottom of the petticoat brown hills covered with all sorts of weeds, and every breadth 'had an‘ old stump of ,L L; LL- L-.. mm, WW--- ____ 7 7 9. litres Pth‘at ran up almost to the top of the petticoat‘ broken and ragged, and worked1with brown chenille round which twined nasturtiums, (sic‘, i* y hen- eys.uck1es,periwinkles, convolvuluses, and all. sorts of twining flowers, which epread and covered the petticoat. vines with the leaves variegated as you have seen them by the sun, all rather smallâ€" er than nature. The robings and fac- iugs were little green banks with all sorts of weeds, and the sleeves and rest of the gown loose twining bran- ches of' the same as those on the pettiâ€" coat. Many of the leaves were fin- ished with: gold, and part of the stumps of the trees looked like the gliding of the sun. I never saw a piece of work so prettin fancied." Some articles; of dress are always as~ sociated with the name of their inâ€" ventor, or their first wearer, or perhaps last wearer, who sticks to -_ IV, a fashion long after others have given it up; as, for instance, if a. "Glad- stone" were not already an expandâ€" ing traveling bag, it might give a name to a certain collar. Wellington and Blucher boots, Capuchin hood, red Geri, baldi, Cavalier hat and feathers, and many others bring to our minds asso ciations beyond those connected mereâ€" ly with the article itself. Some words are nearly lost from the object being obsolete, e.-g., in 1692, men were a neckcloth called a Steenkirk, so new ed fromzita being 'firstfinoticed at that battle, and; for a similar reason a fam- ous wig’ in 1706 was caLled a Ramill'xes. Last century a certain greactoat was called 8. Benjamin from being slight- ly dissimilar to 9. Joseph, which prob- ably gained its name from being‘ made in various} colors. The Ulster is a gar- ment which has survived. many fash- ions; aloose, long frieze coat, first made in Ulster, its origin lost in ob- scurity, though we do not believe, as Noah’s Ark models would wish us to do, that it was known in the days of Noe, that “time of universal nega- tion,” as some one defined it. ‘ There is a romantic history attached to some quaintiy colored and knitted things of Shetland make. Fair Isle, one of the Shetlands, has long been famous for knitted hosiery, gloves, etc., of curious color and design, and the natives’ ability to make them dates back to the Armada time, when a Spanish ship was wrecked there, and the sailors, being forced to stay the winter, taught the Fair Islanders,both the‘ designs and the way to make new dyes from the plants and lichens round them. The end of the nineteenth century we proudly claim as an age of science and progress and, in some ways we may hope that both are influencing the art of dress, though some women who are behind the age still seem to apply the rule for moralsâ€"to know yourself, study others; to know oth- ers, study yourselfâ€"to their rule for? dress! Dressmakers can still give in- stances of customers insisting on their gowns being made with as small or smaller waists than those of their slimmer acquaintances; and how often do we 'hear such remarks as “How pretty Soâ€"and-so. looked in that new hat tohdary! I must get one like it.” And the speaker perhaps has no reâ€" gard to such small matters as comâ€" plexion, general suitability» etc. No one can be said to be independent of dress; a judge or bishop must be extra dignified to whom the judicial robes or episcopal cassock and sleeves do‘ not give an 'added power. A schoolmaster and college tutor strike scholastic awe into their pupils far more with cap and gown than without, and country jurors are impressed with the psycho- logical atmosphere in presence of the bewigged and gowned barristers, much beyond what they would feel were those limbs of the law in plain clothes and natural hair, or baldness, like themselves. A man whose head is shaved is almost bound to look a crim- inal or. a lunatic. Women are gradually adopting a more workmanlike attire, such as men have long considered a desideratum for themselves, suiting their clothing to their occupations, not limiting their occupations from r regard to their clothes. Bicycling, golfing, walking, ne- cessitate more or less short skirts, and in many wardrobes the tailor almost ousts the dressmaker. It is true the riding habitl has long been worn, but only for- the last 'five andivtwenty years can it? be said to be workmanlike. When we see prints of hunting and meets of thirty and forty years back, and note the veil’» flying in the wind} and the ex- tra yard of skirt almost reaching the ground, we feel thankful that, as shown by those pictures, women’ riders seem to have been a very small minority Long skirts and trains probably will continue to exist for evening wear, as they are becoming in giving height. We remember Du Maurier‘s confession that. though often determining to draw a short woman as a variety. he never could resist the temptation, when the pencil was in his hand, of giving the extra inch or two to bestow grace and stateliness; and. as a rule, women, try to increase their height, which is one reason why perpendicular lines in drs are; so much often in fashion than horizontal ones. We hear the 25â€"inch waist of the Venus of Medici is be- coming the recognized size, heaven save the mark! are all women the same height cast? in the teams mold? in place of the regulation half. yard, which has too long been the standard, and this more healthv innovation comes from women having a more artistic idea of beauty, as well as from increasing their healthful modes of exercise. There are three points women should bear in mind when selecting their gownsâ€"suit- ability to their age, their personal ap- pearance and their occupations; and afterâ€"closely after -â€" these points should come the question of pictur- esqueness and individuality, which should make the outward garb express somewhat of the inward spirit of the It will always do to change for the better.â€"â€"Thomson. They that know no evil will suspect non-e, Ben Jonson. Influence is the exhalation of chat- acter.â€"W. M. Taylor. wearer. A grateful dog is better than an un- grateful mamâ€"Saudi. _ Irresolution frames a thousand hor- rors, embodying eachâ€"J. Martyn. No one will maintain that it is better to do injustice than to bear it. A than cannot leave a better legacy to the World than a wellâ€"educated tam- i1y.â€"-â€"Thomas Scott. A matâ€"1 of integrity will never listen to any plea against conscience.â€"Home. 'Industry keeps the body healthy, the mind clear, the heart whole and the purse full.â€"â€"C. Simmons. When a man dies, for years the light he leaves behind him lies on the paths of men.â€"-Lcngfellow. No man ever did a designed injury to another but at the same time he did a greater to himsel£.â€"Home. Inquisitive people are the tunnels of conversation; they do not take in any- thing for their own use, but merely to pass it to another.â€"â€"Steele. ‘ They say that things is gettin’ conâ€" sarnedly rottpn ov_e_r Iin_ old_Pg1ri_s, "i‘Eéi'Enfi'st be.~â€"Tbet last lot 0' paris green Ibought wan't wuth ahucks. THE PROOF BEFORE HIM. PEARLS 0F TRUTH. It was linen, embroidered and cut- work, sometimes combined with What is now known as drawnâ€"threat! work. from which the laces of to-day evolved. The cutâ€"work was madle by the nuns when practically all industries were carried on within the walls of the con- vent. "Nuns’ work" it was called, and an old manuscript is extant which sets forth that a certain lady was “as well skilled in: needlework as 1f she had been brought up in a con- vent." 'From the darned netting to the lace with light ground, such as are used now, is an easy transition; the!) the bbauti’ful "stifiches in the air," as dis- tinct from stitches worked 611 a firm ground, was made, and the evolution ofilaqe was complete. It is delightful to think that the finest stitches which were employed at Venice. Alencon and: Argentan, when these places were ah the height of their glory in the_ sixtaenth and: seventeenth centuries, are not a forâ€" gotten art. By means of microscopas and patient toil on the part of the workers, the method of making the delicate effects has beem rediscoverâ€" ed and is used in! the factories at to- day. Should: one go into a lace shop now and ask for "a. pneittygwinker lace." "a nice length of spring lace” or a "useful autumn variety.” the seller would doubtless think the designing purchaser was a lunatic. In the reign of Louis XV., However, no such idea would dave entered his head, for so popular was lace that the fabric was specialized in this manner.‘ Argentan and Alencomâ€"rather thick and masâ€" siv‘e laces, for those days the design- ers were still under the Venetian in- fluenceâ€"were called "winter" laces; the fabrics of England and Mechlin, on the other hand. were "summer" laces. ’ SOME GOOD RECIPES. Breast oat Lambâ€"A breast Off lamb should be simmered, nU‘t boiled, until it is thoroughly tender, with veget- ables and savory herbs, as well as some peppercorns and a little salt. When- it is done enough for the bones to slip crut easily, remove them, roll up the. meat tightly a‘ndl put it also into a mold, with a weight on the top. When. cold turn out! and garnish with parsley. . Sweet Pickles.â€"‘Bodl together one half peck of ripe tomatoes, peeled and end: into small pieces; one half pint of vinegar, one half tablespoonfvul each of ground cloves, allspice and cinna- mon, one quarter teaspoonful of cayen- uJe. two tablespoonf'uls of salt, a tea- spo‘onfm of mustard andtwo cupfuls of sugar. Cook gently until the tomaâ€" toes are redwoed to a smooth pufip, then put" into jars and. seal tightly. ‘ Oyster Salad.â€"Cuit oysters into thirds or quarters. Pull hearts out of nice levttube Heads and shred’ up one third as much as you have oysters. Dres- sing to be made in following propor- tions: two _ta.blespoonfuis salad oil to fowr of vine; ar, one t‘easpoonful sal't- and same ‘ sugar. one half tea- spoon-fu'l each pepper and freshâ€"made mustard. Rub up, mix thoroughly and poum over oysters and lettuce just before s'arving. Goad Eggnogâ€"To make good egg- nog separate the white and yolk of one egg and beat the; yolk with one table- spoonth of sugar until it is light and creamy; add to this one half cupful of milk, then beat the white of the egg to a foam and stir it lightly into the beaten yodk, sugar and milk. It is a delicious and nomrishing drink. 'Fne-nch Coffee..â€"0ne and one half cups ground! coffee. Put in a flannel bag, tie top and put in old-fashioned. coffee POI; pour on three pints wa- ter, boil 10 minutes ;> serve in anorthcr coffee pot. A very rich coffee can be mad-e by adding to grounds first placed in bowl one egg, shell and all broken. and thoroughly mixed with coffee. Where egg is used. omit soak- ing coffee grogundu in water. Hickory Nut Candy.â€"â€"0ne cuphick- ory nwts, meats. twoe cups sugar, half cup water. [B‘s-i1 'sugar andi water, without stirring. until thick enough tlo- spin a th’wad; flavor with extract lemon or vanilla. Set off into cold water; stir [quickly until white; then stir in nuts; turn into flat tin; when cold out “1120 small squares. Cucumber and Onion Salad.â€"â€"Paro cu- cumbers and lay in ice water one hour ; du same with onions in another bowl. Then slice them in prqporrtion of one onion to three large cucumbers; ar- range in salad bowl and season with vinegar and salt. Cidvenr Jelly.â€"â€"One box Agelatine dis- solved in one pint of cold water. In 20 minutes add one pint boiling waâ€" ter, one quart cider, one pint sugar, granulated, and grated rind and juice of two lemons. Let stand on stove unu til hot, but do not. boil. Then strain into molds. Mack Game Pate.â€"A mock game pate may be made with raised pie crust, the interim filling being veal or rump steak out into neat squares, and in the spaces between little balls of high- ly spiced forcermaat. CHILDREN’S DISLIKES. The matter of likes and dislikes in eating is not, a. trifling one. The child OLD LACES. who can eat any well-prepared food with a certain! amount. of relish is apt to be more healthy. and robust, and is destined to be far more agreeable to others. A young lady of “noble charac- teristics who had through childhood encouraged a distaste for vegetables, finding herself a source of annoyance and inconvenience in homes where she visited, resolved to overcome this unâ€" pleasant tendency. She therefore re- quested that she be served sparingly of these foods that she might learn to like them. In this way she taught herâ€" self really to like everything bwt po- tatoes. and was entertaining a hope that in a. like manner she might learn to like them also, The advantages of learning to like all things is not‘ sufficiently realized, and often is not recognized until later years bring the consequent inconven’w iences and perhaps suffering. While many a housewife has made it her habit to lay away the bed lin- en in lavender scented closets, it was not until recently that the perfumed pad invaded the bed itself. This pad is a thin quilted affair, which has one layer of cotton plentifully beeprinkled with the favorite scent-either rose, lavender orvvioletâ€"in a. sachet powder. From, time to time the powder is re- newed around the edges. The pad is laid between the matress and the low- err sheet. Pillows are also opened at the cor- ners and sachat powder shaken into the feathers. ' Those who are fond of the smell of pine woods gather pine needles during the summer and use them about the wide hams of the pads and pillows, making 'special little sacks for the needles and filling them in flat. THE OYSTER. Oyster .Bruchette.â€"â€"Thls favorite dish is prepared in a unique manner. A heavy pointed wire "measuring {Our inches in length, with a ring or book at one end, 13 the principal utensil used in cooking. The cB-ok slips an oyster over the wire and next a small piece of bacon, and following it anoth- er oyster, the oysters first being dip- ped in melted butter and rolled in cracker crumbs. ‘me w1re is then sus- pended from the broiler over the fire, and. when the oyster Is nicely Drown- ed It is served on buttered toaqt._ ‘ xA Celery Stewâ€"A new and dainty way of cooking oysters is a stew of celery, cream and wine. Cut stalks of celery into dice and fry in butter for a couple 01 minutes, then add enough sherry wine to make a good dressing, and a little later a little sweet cream; when this is well cooking, add the whole oysters, and serve with toast or on plates gamlshed with parsley. ’ The linen used for dailies that are to have borders of drawn work should be very fine, or of linen oambric lawn. The difficulty of drawing the threads from such linen is much lessened it a piece of fine, dry, white soap is rubbed carefully over the space when it is desired to do ths work. When marketing, remember that it poultry is young, the end of the breastâ€"bone is just like gristle; and that the joints are limber and the legs smooth. When fresh killed, the eyes are full and the feet moist. The feel: and beak of a. young goose are yellow, but if the bird has weathered too ni‘any storms, its feet and beak will be reddish color, and bristly. It the feet are not pliable, it is a sign that the goose has been a long time dead. That'tat of a young bird in whiter and softer than that‘of an old one. Unless the weather is very warm, all kinds of poultry, turkeys especially, are improved by hanging for a day or two. Their Ilandlernl’ts lndellbly Impress Their Mark leon 'l‘llem. Probably sailors and miners are more impressed by their respective callings than any other workers. The sailor, living- in great open spaces, and subject to sudden and unforeseen con- tingencies, is frank to the verge of recklessness, and full of prompt re- source. He usually thinks what he pleases and says what he thinks with- out chopping logic,â€"the sea molds his character to its own moods, and whe- ther these resemble the hard-hitting of the gale, or the softer tempers of smooth waters, both are frank and free. The miner, on the contrary: is shaped. 1113 1.1111191, vu uuv mun...“ , ._ ~_,,,:‘ ., _ by his work, to face hard. facts as he does hard rock. He finds ways and means to get through or round both, exhibiting both physically and menâ€" tally a dogged perseverance, develop- ing sometimes into obstinacy; hence miners‘ strikes are amongst the worst of labor disputes. As a. class, also, min- ers tend to be narrow-minded; they work within limited horizons, and their character is influenced accordingly. Employment Agentâ€"Why do you‘ leave a place in which you have work- ed so many‘iyeors‘l .1 Domesto-Well, you see, their misses died last month. The house is ionely now., I suppose. ’Ta'm't that; but now ‘the missus in dead, the master blames everything on; A HARD POSITION TO FILL. HOW TO BUY POULTRY. SAILORS AND MIN ERS. LINEN FOR DOILIES. PERFUMED BEDS.