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All these appliances give to the hair Iresser‘: little mirror lined toilet rooms the appearance of a modern torture chamber. Down from the nailing. by green electric wires. re- volving hair cleaners of various sizes hang. for some heads are so delicate Ind the tints of some hair so pale Ind beautiful. that a dry cleaning is the only kind given, since the hair A remarkable application of coloring fluid through electric baths is what? they now give in cases of premature; grayness. The process is long and‘ exciting and furthermore it is expen- 5 live. The head is washed and rub-J bed and steamed and then a tinted oil ‘ is worked intO‘the open pores. Curi-l ously enough a sweetly perfumed white oil gives a brown tone. a faint I brown oil brings back a shining black gloss and then electricity is expected to do the rest, after the clipping, sing- lng and brushing with a huge revolv- lng. softly bristled wheel has been un- ergone. To begin with the coifteurs. Their business is not only to arrange hair exquisitely but to guard it from all the Weaknesses that the human scalp i; prone to. to impart to scant ueg hair a vigor and gloss as well as a ourliness without which no woman’s beauty can of course be considered complete. Just drop into the operat- ing rooms of one of the best of these artists and see him take a. stiff gray handful of short and what are called badly bitten looks into his hands. The saddened possessor of this uncom- promising looking mass says she once had nice brown curls and then she was ill. finally resorted to dyes, let the dye wear off and then took to curling irons. With the profound gravity and attention of a great phy- sician the head of the establishment questions and listens. He absorbs Ind makes elaborate notes upon the whole history of the case, inquires whether grayness and thinness of growth are hereditary, and then- orâ€"f ders his assistants to examine the} scalp. take samples of the hair and ! when full microscopic and chemical investigation has been made be de- |ides on a treatment. It was a poor, unknown but burn- lngly ambitious frlseur in a back oourt~three flights up who did Janei Hading's hair ten years ago in large ondules that stayed, and toâ€"day he, airs himself in the Bois de Boulogne; in the most gorgeous and expensive automobile ever seen in that park.‘ The woman who made Rejane’s figure ( and now keeps her waist permanently I at the 19-inch measure, has one of the l finest studios for the cultivation of‘ the waist on a big boulevard back of, the opera house. The man with the‘ new electric appliance for restoring‘ color to gray hair is growing almost bald and gray himself from overpat- ronage, while as to the cultivator of lovely bones, the creator of supple beautiful leanness, her clientele runs now into the thousands. Juan. uuu wuulu u: nun-u beauty created by science than by na- ‘ _ I I ' . : Coming In her delicate luxurious peig- ture, more physical loveliness by di- rect application of remedies ranging from hypnotism to hot water, than by health or inheritance, and the pow- ers behind the throne of beauty dwall in what are called Ateliers de la Beaute. They are all specialists, de- voting their lives and their brains to the study of the improvement of the feminine form or face divine and the artists of great fame who paint porâ€" traits for rich people earn no bigger incomes than some of these hair or complexion creators. are women and some of them are men, but all of them make their first fame by the creation of a successful act- ress. The scheme of advertisement is sim- ple enough. When a pupil from the conservatory is preparing to make her first appearance under particularly powerful patronage. one of these fairy god~mothers takes her in hand and for nothing at all creates for her a feature. To this are added fine gowns and no matter if the debut is a failure the feature is sure to find favâ€" or with -the appreciative Parisian audience, and the next day every one is talking of Mlle. B.’s marvellous shoulders. creates a fashion, and to the beauty artists who rushes the feminine Parisian world. It was a poor, unknown but burn- lngly ambitious friseur in a back made Mlle. B. famousy arrangement of their locks unaided. noir, over which a long dark cloak is worn through the street, the stage beauty drops into a deep armchair and an elegantly attired young wo- man takes out the shell pins and pro- ceeds deliberately to comb the silken tresses with her fingers. ’l'anglps are not rudely torn from the mesh nor long precious strands uprooted, but every knotted curl is patiently raveled until the assistant’s fingers run from scalp to tip unimpeded. Then some of [hemga wheel shaped brush, covered with long bristles as soft as camel’s hair, is allowed to whirl over the head and down the white partings made by the assistant’s index finger. This de- taches and blows out every particle of dust and a little finger massage. stirs the blood under the skin. After this, if it is the day for the ondule. steel tongs are brought fourth and instead of heating the surface of the metal over a flame, hollow tongs filled with hot water are imployed. The water supplies the requisite intensity of heat without running any danger of scorching the hair, and besides act~ resses hundreds of well-cared-for Parisian fashionable women drop in waist, 01- exquisite ham or stunning 3 during the day, slip into white silk Talk of that sort in Paris , ‘ the dry cleaning process which is not , peignoirs and subject their heads to only good for the hair but prevents the headaches. the nervous attacks and weariness that comes after a re- gular soap and water shampoo. If any woman comes to Paris these days with the laudable determination to overcome her physical defects there is no earthly reason why her ambition should not be gloriously realized. writes a correspondent. In Paris just now there is more feminine beauty created by science than by na- ture, more physical loveliness by di-‘ reet application of remedies ranging from hypnotism to hot water. than by health or inheritance. and the pow- ers behind the throne of beauty dwell in what are called Ateliers de la Beaute. They are all specialists, de- voting their lives and their brains to the study of the improvement of the feminine form or face divine and the artists of great fame who paint por- traits for rich people earn no bigger incomes than some of these hair or complexion creators. Some of them. are women and some of them are men, but all of them make their first fame by the creation of a successful act- r658. At first the women refused to wear the corset. but the dressmakers put on the thumb screws by promptly and flatly requing to take an order for a When the great modistes calla con- vention to consider vital changes in the style, nothing can be decided until the corset makers admit the possi- bility of producing stays that will cast the figure into the mould re- quisite for the new form of skirt and waist. Three years ago a. staymak- er in Paris invented the straight front corset with a view of satisfying the demands of Worth and his collea- gues who had decided to move slowly toward the restoration of the Louis XV. and XVI. styles of dress. At first the women refused to wear the corset. but the dressmakers put on the thumb screws by promptly and flatly refusing to take an order for a penciled, but they are not the little warm rose lighted boudoirs to which the smart Parisienne and initiated foreigner go. To get a complexion that is worth having and guaranteed to wear, you must have a. card and out of the dust and noise of the street you pass from a court up a pair of stairs and into a pink and white drawing room that looks as if the decorations were done in curds and whipped cream and where, a velvet voiced young woman. whose very presence inspires confi- dence. takes you in hand. She Whisks you into a bouduil‘ all to yourself, tucks you into a. silk crepon and lace rohe de chambre, speaks tenderly to 3" Never indeed, no matter What the 3 conditions, does the up-to-date hair 3 , dresser in Paris permit a head under 5 ! his care to go into a tub. Vt'hen a ‘ woman arrives in the frescoed parlors, , where in cupboards hang peignoirs of every tint in silk satin or linen that may please her taste‘,‘ she is booked ,‘for a steaming. The hair is incased E in a long bag of the thinnest rubber, E one end of which fits about the fore- a 5 I head. back of the neck and ears. »Steam is turned on and for nearly an ‘hour rises into the locks, condenses _ on-the scalp, and a steady drip, drip, I goes on until a proper point of cleanâ€" liness is reached. The drying is all done in a trice with an electric brush. This is followed by thoroughly per- fuming the tresSes, a process also ac- complished by steam, and this per- ,fume treatment supplies to dry hair just the requisite gloss. After long and patient experiment to such a point of perfection has the drying of hair been recently brought. that if a blonde or a gray head is to have a darker tint. one treatment every six months is enough to hold the color bright and true against all, save salt Iwater tests. Red is the tone most difficult to fix, unless the process of changing from the natural artificial color is begun in youth and carried on gradually. In Paris now- a-days it is no uncommon sight to see girls of twelve and fourteen going the changing of their sober brown or black locks. Girls there are destined for the stage or for smart society and their ambitious mothers willingly un- in order to secure for their daughters a feature so rare and so difficult of attainment. every week to the hair dressers for‘ dergo the trouble and expense entailed , to the, Hair dressers, however, great as is their influence, are no more potent or advanced along the road to scien- tific manufacture of beauty than the‘ corset makers. \Vonderfully shaped; and supple bodies they fit to exquis-l itely cared for heads, and the making} of special corsets alone in Paris is a ‘ business amounting to millions of dol- lars a year. No one knows really“ how strong is the link that binds the‘ dressmaker to the corset maker in] this city of good gowns. f Some women, like Lucy Gerard and Cleo do Merode. come direct from baths and breakfasts. for it is against their principles and the order of their coitfeur to attempt even the simplest dresser has decided that more women bleach and injure the quality of their hair by; washing and brushing than through any other agency. All day long women are coming in to have their heads brushed and the earlier the hour the greater the number of visitors. Here is anorhertloophole for plain V peasant. whose woman’s escape from the curse of real valid for some ‘ ugliness. She must indeed be ahope- 1 And how is 1‘ less sort of creature who fails to find I the visitor. damask cheeks and a. lily brow in} Just about th‘ some atelier of Paris. There are still I 1y, mem, was i those beauty parlors where rouge isi Did she enjoy daubed, powder dusted and eyebrows sent her yesterd penciled, but they are not the little The things co] warm rose lighted boudoirs to which. we be greatly the smart Parisienne and initiated: might make so To add to her height she Wears the extreme pompadour heel to her shoe. whether by day or night. and to com- plete her charm she affects the new powder rogue that only the micro- scopic eye can detect from the color that comes of high health and fine living. l First the regenerate figure is laced jinto a straight-front stay, the back of which is. laced in two sections. Broad, flat shoulders, prominent colâ€" lar bones, long lean arms, the waist of an ant, hips flat and without curve athat is the rule for the fashionable figure to-day. To make the shoulders flat the brace is used-and pulled up just one button a day, then eased for twenty-four hours, for a flat back should not imply a stiff back, and where the shoulder blades protrude the figure is looked upon as ill-propor- tioned and ungraceful. An outstand- ing shoulder blade implies a sunken chest. and no militar;y man boasts in proportion a broader chest than the most modern Parisian woman in her skimpy; skirted gown of lace or liberty tissue and her hair piled so high that she towers above her stal- wart escort. This reasonable conclusion has been practically reached so often here in Paris, that no longer is there an ex- cuse for a clumsily fat woman. That is what the corset makers insist. which accounts for the tremendous number of patients who meekly, win- cingly, shiveringly but hopefully stand the shock of spout and spray. \Vhen the bones begin to show, then the way back to the corset maker‘s satin-lin- ed little boudoir is taken and the re- sponsibility is left to her of bringing the flesh-bent bones back into place. nate flesh with bags filled with fine- ly shaved ice. Wrapped in a sheet her patient is first laid on a wooden table with a gutter all around its edge, and then the rubber hose is turned on. It plays in a spray, a circle and a steady spout first, from this angle and then from that, and after a few moments of spraying the thumping with ice filled bags begins until the offending flesh does melt like dew according to Hamlet’s elo- quently expressed desire. After the spraying and thumping the patient is ordered to run around the room, is rubbed down, wrapped in a flannel robe, allowed to rest fifteen minutes and to eat a dry biscuit and half a cup of hot, black coffee with a little of what tastes like a delicious liqueur in it. After two or three treatments the bones begin to sprout, first those around the neck come, then a good sharp elbow developes itself, and at last the hip meausre begins to shrink. Hip flesh is the last to go, and this precedes the diminution of the waist girth. Rarely does a subject prove wholly resistant to the cold water treatment. Plain water, directed from a sufficient height through a hose, will do as much as faith, namely. move mountains, and it is therefore perfectly logical to agree that less water through a smaller hose direct- ed at unstable human flesh. will break down fatty tissues and bring out the solid bone foundation. After this a liquid of delicate odor and secret composition is massaged in gently and what is called electric air blown into the face. This last smells like a warm south wind wafted over a bed of violets or carnations, and while you are trying to decide which. you fall into a profound and refresh- ing slumber. It does not last more than ten minutes, the nap. but you wake softly out of it to find that the young woman is throwing many shad- ed lights on your face. She is trying to decide what tint of powder will suit your skin best. and the varying nuances of color come from thinnest sheets of crystal behind which there is an electric light. 'Every crysltil sheet is matched by powder, a powder which when blown, not smeared, on the face, produces exactly the normal tint of rose your cheeks would wear .were nature kind enough to prevent this sort of art. When the color is decided upon the powder is blown on by a new device, and if the decision .is that a delicate rosy radiance over the whole face is likely to produce a more natural effect than an applica- tion to the cheeks alone, the powder is applied and then by the deftest touch in the world it is worked in and lthe surplus blown off, with an enor- ,mous swansdown puff on the end of an ivory stick. Einally, when the treatment is over r and you sit erect in your chair facing a long mirror, you realize for the first time that vou are a narticularlv alt- They call her the cold water witch. because she spouts an icy fluid on her victims form every point of the com- pass and is even capable, her subjects say, of massaging and pounding obsti- nate flesh with bags filled with fine- ly shaved ice. Wrapped in a sheet her patient is first laid on a wooden table with a gutter all around its edge, and then the rubber hose is turned on. It plays in a spray. a circle and a steady spout first, from this angle and then from that. and after a few moments of spraying the thumping with ice filled bags begins until the offending flesh does melt like dew according to Hamlet's elo- quently expressed desire. After the spraying and thumping the patient is ordered to run around the room. is rubbed down, wrapped in a flannel robe. allowed to rest fifteen minutes and to eat a dry biscuit and half a cup of hot, black coffee with a little of what tastes like a delicious liqueur in it. gown unless it was fitted over the new corset. The women gave in and that staymaker is a rich man. He did it all by fooling willingly beguil- ed femininity; he made the waist big- ger. but he made it longer. and now when he has a. Woman whose body no human force could crush into a 24- inch corset, he turns her over to the producer of bones, to the woman who keeps Rejane‘s figure in trim. brushes flesh from the limbs as easily as a housemaid Whisks cobwebs from the wall. here rouge isi Did she enjoy these little things I and OYebrows sent her yesterday? asked the lady. not the little The things come all right, mem, an' ““j With a little magnetism we treat flan! wrinkles successfully, she will assure In{‘an interested listener. ~ The patient angis put into complete relaxation and m , ttien the face is bathed and massaged, or] but enamelingâ€"oh, no, never does the so Parisian actress or women of fashion ’1' submit to that nowadays, though we I do sometimes make little brown moles he l on the left cheek. " might make so bold, would ye not send her any more of that jelly? Some ljamâ€"strawberry jamâ€"be much more I sootnble. mam. Yes; if somebody were to send 'him on :1 wild goose chase, he'd speak of himself afterward as a sportsman. He goes in for everything. He's quite an enthusiast. Yes, mem. she do; but I cnn't say as I does. | Go more deeply into the question of lcomplexion treatment with the young [woman and she will inform you that 'these powders are laid on after a ‘treatment with peroxide of hydrogen Iis given and that in some cases they {do use hypnotic force to give the :modern nervous woman. whose facial Emuscles are not at rest even when 'she sleeps, 3. period of profound re- | pose. \Vhy doesn’t she care for the jelly? was the natural query. we be greatly obleeged; but if I The Lady Bountiful of the parish was going her roundsI and called at a. small cottage occupied by a model peasant, whose wife had been an in- valid for some years. And how is Mary to-day? inquired the visitor. Just about the same, thankee kind- ly, mem, was the reply. I Einally, when the treatment is over i and you sit erect in your chair facing I a long mirror, you realize for the first [time that you are a particularly at- tractive young woman and that none but you and the young woman need fever know but what your exquisite ‘rose-leaf skin came through other Tthan health’s own agency. Go as Inear the mirror as you please or roll [in from under a thick green shade I the hard light of day on your face and the charm of reality is just as keen :and your conscience is clear of the crime of using rouge. You are simâ€" :ply wearing a tinted powder adjusted twith infinite art to your clean soft~ ened skin. No pores are clogged and a dash of cold water will wash it all away, yet left. alone it will remain ‘fixed for twanty-four hours. WHO LIKED STRAKVBERRY JAM? ' There is a soft bright light overâ€" head and you attempt for a while to watch her manoeuvres, but it is bet- ter to shut your eyes while she ex- amines you through a powerful lens and tells you your skin is just the quality of such and such a Duchess, and that just a little of this and that will render it quite ravishing. First she washes cheeks, chin and brow with a sponge hastily dried out from very hot water. That relaxes all the nerves and opens the pores and then with two tiny rubber-headed drum- sticks she plays a. rat-a-tat-too, from one end of your countenance to the other. you, pushes your head back on a cush ion and begins her operations. AN ALL-AROUND MAN The Paris contourieres are cleverly combm’lng cloth, silks, poplins and em- broidered muslins with fonlards. are not very remote The end of the South African w Lherefore the more ardenin des. In order [but the hand of th: B1 Governm-n‘ may :11 tooner b; for contingencies which somr- be Lord Salisbury we objection he miqu 1 timfly threat might troops Russia has “3.1 Asia along the sian frontiers. The feeling in England in relativn to the Musampho concession seems to be stronger than with regard to the others, England having evacuated Port Hamilton in 1886 after obtaining an undertaking from Russia, not to “occupy Corean territory under any circumstances whatever.” In 1894 Sir Edward Grey. then British Under Sec- retary for Foreign Affairs, intimat- ed that the British Government re- garded Lhis pledge as still valid. In the present circumstances, howuver, protest is unnvdiling and the preced- ent of Port Arthur makes it doubt- ful in the opinion of many whether The last concession gives Russia. an exclusive ice-free harbor midway be- tween Vladivostock and Port Arthur thus securing a winter base for her Pacific fleet which is being steadily, increased. It also gives her command of the sea road to Pekin, and in a measure isolates \Vei-hai-wei, and threatens Japan from across a. very narrow channel. So secretly was this treaty negotiated that it was still unknown to foreign correspondents at Tokiu in Japan in the middle of April. and apparently also to the Japanese Government The last concession was obtained from Corea on March 30, ,when the Corean Government made ,over to Russia a site on the shore of the har- bolr of Masampho at the southern ex- tremity of the Corean Peninsula. to serve as a coal depot and naval hos- pital for the exclusive use of the Rus- sian fleet. The value of the conces- sion is doubly enhanced by a clause which prevents Coxrea from alienating to any other power any land in the neighbourhood or even on Kojedo or any other island, which would cover Port Hamilton and Quelpart. islands which England has had an eye on for a long time. ITS STRATEGIC ADVANTAGE is also greater, as it is so far remov- ed from the coast that the chance of its being interrupted by an enemy for‘ eign to China and Russia. is reduced to a minimum. In the Far East, Russia has obtain- ed two notable concessions, one of which is believed by many to endan- ger the continuance of her pacific re- lations with Japan. The first of these concessions is the right to build a railway from. Kiahhta, the Siberian customs frontier station, south of Lake Baikal, to Killgim, on the great wall of China northwest of Pekin. The obstacles to the construction of this road through eastern Mongolia, are nothing compared to those presented by the country through which the Manchurian railway passes to Port Arthur and Vladivostock. ment giving Russia the monopoly of railway construction in Eastern Asia. Minor which virtually converts the great plateau of Armenia into a Rus- sian sphere of influence. Simultane- ously with the negotiations that give her this foothold in the regions over- looking the low lands of Mesopotamia. and facing the German sphere in An- atolia, Russia. acquired a lien on Bul- garia in return for a small loan; she obtained the use of the important har- bor of Bourgas on the Black Sea. which is conneoted by railway with Sofla, the capital and the Servian and Macedonian railways; and the Bulgarian army becomes again the ad- vance guard of Russia in the Balkan Peninsula. These .are her lgains in western Asia and the near East. In the Far East, Russia has obtain- to the Afghan frontier on'the road leading to Herut. The next was the concession from the Turkish Govern- The first step taken by Russia im- mediately after it was seen that the Anglo-Boer war was going to be I much longer and more tedious affair Lhun was first reckoned on was the mortgage she established over Persia. followed by the movement of troops Important Ad'llll :gv‘ Seclmd While Em: land Wus Busy “'llh the Boers. Now that the and of the war in South Africa is believed to be in sight attention is being turned in England to the advantages that have been gained by Russia during the eight 1110th which it has lasted while the hands of England have been pmotio- ally Lied. GAINS MADE BY RUSSIA. 11d persist in aise; while an collected in c Afghan and E in motion desired, Briti ~h ‘e.xeve any un- the